Sunday, June 29, 2014

Australia Part II - enter the ponies

Australia Part II - enter the ponies

Part of the plan for this adventure was to include some experiences off the beaten track. In what shape or form did not matter too much and I was open to pretty much anything. By chance one of the guys in my dorm in Cairns mentioned he’d got a job through an online ‘help exchange’ programme and was leaving later that day to work on a farm nearby. Naturally I signed up and the first advertisement I came across was a “horse and cattle station” a couple of hours’ drive west of Townsville. I didn’t know too much about horses or cattle, but that didn’t seem to be a problem, and in exchange for caring for a couple of calves and some young horses and general pitching in, I would get food and lodging. Seemed like a reasonable deal to me.

Amelia Downs, which would become home for the three short weeks I spent there, is a 50,000 acre cattle station and has been run by John and Prue Weir and their family since 2000. Jane, their daughter, keeps a number of horses which she trains and prepares for competition, although a recent injury has limited her ability to pursue this dream currently. Some horses are kept for work purposes such as mustering cattle which I soon learned is a pretty fun means for directing the flow of bovine migration. I was also lucky enough to ride an off road bike, a quad bike, shoot a 223 rifle, try my hand at welding and get a great insight into what it takes to run a farm and experience the day to day lifestyle. I loved the early mornings and getting to know the warm blooded beasts that are horses and all their different personalities and quirks. The Weir family is particularly warm and they were very kind to me during my stay exuding patience with the visiting city boy and making a great effort to ensure I enjoyed the experience.

It then became apparent that I’d have the opportunity to move down the coast to assist at a race horse stable - Affinity Park - which is Joe and Amy Weir’s plot in Oakey, near Toowoomba. Joe was off to attend a vet conference in New Zealand and he would be joined by John and Prue as well as Amy, so I arrived with the intention to assist Mikayla with the horses while everyone was away. I was warned that race horses can be pushy and stubborn, but I got on well, or they behaved particularly well, and enjoyed my stay in the small, quiet town. The sunrises and sunsets were spectacular and it was impressive to see the transformation of what was once a vacant plot into the current horse yards and stables in a few short years. On returning from New Zealand, Joe was keen to continue with his stables building project and so I was shifted from stable hand to technical assistant. I learned a great deal over the past month and it was a great way to really interact with some genuine locals and get an insight into ways of life of which I am not accustomed.

Foggy dawn at Amelia Downs

Leading two mares out to the paddock after breakfast

Mustering cattle on Rhythm the moody chestnut

Driving the cattle on to the next paddock for fresh grazing

Old truck at Amelia Downs

The dogs love riding on the quad bike

Home for the three weeks I spent at Amelia Downs

Lucky, one of the two calves I cared for, enjoying the morning sun

Jane fixing the fence gate

We did some casual riding as well which was good fun

Lovely morning at Oakey horse racing track

Amy training one of her horses

The house at Affinity Park - home for my week in Oakey

Joe welding the frame for the stables at sunset

Thursday, June 5, 2014

Australia Part I

Living in South Africa the majority of my life and having done some travelling, I have been privy to the vast contrast between the first and third worlds and many ‘in-between’. But that still did not prepare me for my arrival in Australia after three months travelling countries that would be classed third world or developing economies. The intensity of the grilling immigration officials and the airport security was enough to encourage the beads of sweat growing in number initially due to the heat and humidity to make me look like there was nothing but narcotics and weapons stuffed away in my backpack. But with the first world restrictions comes manicured lawns, luxury I’d long forgotten such as comfortable pillows, western food, efficient and relatively comfortable public transport and many more pleasures. Especially when you are fortunate to have some family residing in Darwin - my first stop on the island.

Marion is my Dad’s cousin and I was spoilt for the full eleven days I stayed with her and her husband Robert. Simon, their son, is living the dream with his family at their home on the marina and the whole family was extremely welcoming and kind to me, it really was a welcome relief from backpacking. My stay included a trip to Kakadu National Park, Litchfield National Park, a sunset cruise around the Darwin Harbour, trips to various museums, galleries and monuments and some great chill out time. I then headed across to Cairns to meet up with Helen who had a week off from work with the plan to head up to Cape Tribulation via Port Douglas and Mossman Gorge. The weather didn’t really play its part, but the environment was still spectacular and we had a really good time exploring the area and making the most of it. Unfortunately that did mean that diving the Great Barrier Reef was on hold until sunnier days. 


Helen went back to work and I made my way down the coast to Townsville - Piers and Shelley’s old stomping ground. It was great to place some images alongside some of the stories they had shared and I took their advice and saw some great sights. Magnetic Island is indeed magnetic. Despite not managing to take a picture of a Koala, I did see some, and exploring the island by bus and on foot was great. As usual, I also met some interesting people along the way.

Sunset from the jetty at Simon's place overlooking the Darwin marina

'Jumping croc'

The Aboriginal art reminded me of some of the bushmen paintings I've seen back home.
In fact, the similarities/parallels in Australian and South African history and modern day society was really interesting

Kakadu National Park is diverse and beautiful. 
Some of the park was closed due to the wet season, but the parts we saw were awesome

The Darwin coastline

Termite mound in Litchfield National Park

Both Kakadu and Litchfield are packed with great pools for swimming

Beach walk in Cape Tribulation

Walkway through mangrove

One of many joggers stopping to enjoy the sunrise on Castle Hill, Townsville

Bizarre little creatures

View from a bunker on Magnetic Island

One of the many beautiful beaches on Magnetic Island

Monday, May 19, 2014

Nine Lessons Learnt in Southeast Asia

Southeast Asia* is a magic place and, although harrowing at times, well worth the experience. I say “experience”, because traveling is so much more than seeing and capturing sights for Facebook and Instagram bragging rights. I’m sure many reading this are aware of this, but sadly, I see so many that are not.

*When I refer to Southeast Asia, I can only speak of Thailand, Cambodia, Vietnam and Laos. I wish I had time and money to experience the rest and hopefully I will some day.

1. Every country and its inhabitants are different. Do not expect that because they are all close together and populated by Asians that they are all going to be similar. While there may be common threads in culture and some landscapes, there is a reason some of the most hectic tragedies and wars have been fought over these lands in the recent past. 

Hutyee Boat - my Muslim host signing me in on Ko Lanta, Thailand

Monks on their morning alms route in Luang Prabang, Laos

2. Almost everything is negotiable, so learn the skill. Prices are the most commonly negotiated, but bear in mind that Asians can make almost anything happen for you if you use the right avenues. When it comes to price:
2.1 Never act 100% interested, even if you are desperate for the item/activity/hotel/whatever. Hover around 60-80% depending on their attitude
2.2 After first price is given, immediately respond with “What? No! This is not my first time in [the country]”
2.3 Next they will say “OK, how much you pay?”. In which case you respond with something only slightly ridiculously low. Do not let pride or pity get in the way of your negotiation - they will not sell it to you if they are not happy with the deal. If they do not ask how much you will pay, still follow up with a low price
2.4 If you’re still not sure/happy (and even if you are), walk away and show genuine disinterest in continuing the negotiation. They will either call after you with a better price, or not. Either way it’s a useful opportunity to think it through as these exchanges can be intense and emotional and perspective here is key. You can always pick up the negotiation where you left off
2.5 If a negotiation has not gone well, you can always send in somebody else who hasn’t been seen to be part of your group and get them to try a fresh angle. Another option is to come back later and they may not remember you - after all, all tourists look the same
2.6 The bigger the group or the larger the number of items you are negotiating, the better your standing. Asians get excited about big numbers, so be sure to throw around some big (yet reduced) numbers and buy in bulk and save
2.7 If you hear somebody else getting a good deal, don’t be afraid to piggyback off their deal and act like that is the standard price because that’s what somebody else paid
2.8 Good cop; bad cop works wonders:
2.8.1 Good Cop shows some interest (but not too much) and asks the price
2.8.2 Bad Cop is outraged at the cost
2.8.3 Good Cop calmly offers a much lower price
2.8.4 Bad Cop is further outraged by the counter offer and storms off encouraging Good Cop to do the same
2.8.5 Good Cop lingers and ‘behind Good Cop’s back’ asks whether it is the “best price”
2.8.6 An amicable deal is struck:
2.8.6.1 Good Cop gets the item at a reasonable price
2.8.6.2 The Asian is having a chuckle at Bad Cop as he/she still made bank on the sale
2.8.6.3 Bad Cop is having a chuckle with Good Cop at the theatrics of it all. Bad Cop is usually male and is also pleased to be enjoying pineapple on a stick away from the hustle of the market while waiting for Good Cop to seal the deal

I negotiated a two for one deal for freeing birds from their tiny cages at this temple in Laos

The price for a kayak for half a day was 300 baht
As I only had two and a half hours I convinced the lady that 200 baht was reasonable. She agreed.

3. You do not have to buy all of your food from restaurants and stalls; both breakfasts and lunches can be catered oneself.
3.1 Breakfast - buy/pack a cheap plastic bowl and spoon. Cereal can be bought almost everywhere and small cartons of milk and yoghurt are readily available. Watch out for sweetened milk, and if you do fall prey to it, just add some water and it does the trick
3.2 Lunch - buy a small plastic bread board and carry a knife of some sort. Bread and tomatoes are fairly universal and see what else is going at a market to add to the mix for a great sandwich.
3.3 That said, it is sometimes cheaper (and certainly easier) to eat at a stall or cheap restaurant, particularly if your hotel room does not have a refrigerator for storing fresh items

A quick stop for a snack and a drink on a pier in Nha Trang, Vietnam

4. Wildlife and nature conservation in general are lost on this crowd; a sad and alarming truth. As a traveller one can only try and support and encourage the communities and organisations that practice sustainability.

Although it's not every day you get to hold a massive snake

5. One does not necessarily have to experience the raging shits (a dodgy tummy) from eating ‘local’. Rolling the dice at a street stall is part of the experience, but be sure to give yourself the best odds:
5.1 Don’t pick ones that have pre-cooked their food well in advance; there’s no telling when that might’ve been
5.2 Go with busier stalls experiencing higher turnover; one hopes that the food is fresher
5.3 If you taste that something is not right, abandon the food immediately

Who really knows what goes into an angry bird kebab

6. If you are arriving at a city/town late at night - particularly from another country - it is useful to book your accommodation in advance and make sure to pick one with a free airport/train/bus transfer if possible. However, even if you are planning on staying more than one night, it is best to only book one night and assess the situation from there:
6.1 Hotel and guest house websites, TripAdvisor, Lonely Planet, friends’ recommendations etc are all useful, but can be deceiving. You can only truly understand the levels of service, cleanliness, quality etc by experiencing them yourself
6.2 This is another opportunity for some price negotiation for further nights’ stay. Even if you intended on staying four nights, you may be able to “throw some big numbers around” and once again, buy in bulk and save. Show your usual 70% interest in possibly staying a few extra nights, and use the ultimate grand total to your advantage. One such opportunity went as follows: we booked accommodation in advance for Vang Vieng as we knew we’d be arriving late on the bus but as we were still learning, we had booked two nights in advance for $32 for the room (a bit of a splurge but some late decision making backed us into a corner). As it panned out, our corner room with a view was ideal and seeing as we had some extra time to spare, we thought we’d look at extending our stay:
6.2.1 Me: “Yes I slept OK, thanks. Listen, we were thinking about possibly staying another night, is there availability? (with knowledge that the hotel is obviously not at all full)
6.2.2 Manager: “Yes that is possible”
6.2.3 Me: “OK, we were thinking then for 3 nights that we pay $42, otherwise we must go somewhere else as we were not planning to spend so much here.
6.2.4 Manager: considers for a short moment and agrees.
6.2.5 Me (the following day): Hi, we just love it here so much we were thinking one more day. Can we say $50 for all the nights?
6.2.6 Manager: considers for a short moment and agrees once again.
6.2.7 Me (thinking): “Wow, that’s a $14 saving we just made. A $16 a night room just became a $12.50 a night room. Breakfast is included and this place is much nicer than anything else we’ve seen in this little town. Best of all, the Manager seems to like our vibe and is happy with the deal. Good times”

View from the deck of my 300 baht a night double bungalow in Thailand

Staying with friends is obviously first prize
Ricky and Michelle's place in Bangkok had an amazing pool on the roof for a dip any time

7. Be prepared to have your budget sideswiped by unexpected turns of events. And luckily this works both ways, however it does err on spending more as all travel is wont to do.
7.1 Having your own custom wool and cashmere blend suit tailored exactly to your specifications is something that a reasonable amount of money can indeed buy… in Vietnam. So take the opportunity.
7.2 Experiences of a lifetime are invaluable and while you can’t do it all, be prepared to spend a little here and there for previously identified bucket list moments. 
7.3 Every now and then you will cut a deal, or come across a special that will save you some cash. Tuck it away and write it off to that suit and perhaps celebrate with a $0.50 beer.

Tailors in Hoi An, Vietnam are open late and tempt travellers with great value bespoke clothing

8. Free Wifi is a real thing here and makes staying connected a breeze. Almost all restaurants, coffee shops, some buses and accommodation offer the service, so save some bucks and communicate via social networks, email and Skype.

Probably not Ricky and Michelle's finest photo, but who can argue with free wifi and $0.50 beers as advertised in the background? 
Indeed, the sign reads "happy day" as opposed to"happy hour"

9. Weather is key as a lot of the experiences are outdoors; not to mention there is a lot of time spent on foot, bicycles and scooters. Be sure to travel at the right times of year for the various countries. While South Vietnam mostly played ball, North Vietnam let us down on this front a bit and it shows in the photos.


While South Vietnam was saturated with sunshine and colour;

North Vietnam was less accommodating

On rereading the lessons above, I have no doubt that there are many more, and the advice should certainly be taken in consideration with other guides, books and word of mouth. While I recalled some tough times on the road - it wasn’t a complete breeze; I have no doubt it was all totally worth it. 

Tuesday, May 6, 2014

Thailand: The end of the beginning

Recalling the magic of Thailand is long over due and in hindsight, I should have split and recorded the experience in two parts. Finishing up in Laos is now a month ago and it feels an age since then. I suspect this is due to the incredible amount of fun and the truly amazing sights I’ve experienced during the last few weeks, but I’ll do my best to justify the experiences.

After a hectic eight weeks of travelling, spending no more than four days in one place at a time, Kara and I felt the need for some time out. Ko Tao was our chosen destination for this and it proved to be just what the doctor ordered. We arrived with absolutely no plan for accommodation as we often did, and after a quick room search using the wifi at a nearby coffee shop to the ferry drop off area, we discovered that in fact most places were fully booked. We decided to head to a quieter part of the island, choosing the southern side, and hope for the best. This turned out to be a great plan as we were rewarded with a great spot at a reasonable rate. The view was great, the haircut a gamble and the vitality restored. Just in time to move on to Ko Phangan for Songkran and the full moon party. Songkran is the Thai new year, celebrated with water fights on the most incredible, yet childish scale. A complete disregard for technology (waterproof bags for phones and cameras are expected) and common decency (feel free to spray anyone in the face with your water gun or throw a bucket of water at them) is the norm, but the feeling of celebration and good humour is contagious. Following on from that was the full moon party which has become a party of epic proportions, with fire, buckets of booze, loud music, luminous paint and much shenanigans on the beach. I found the irony that the day the beach is most packed for a party is the exact time it is at it’s least accommodating rather amusing/inconvenient - the full moon resulting in high tide and therefore a rather narrow beach and all. Nonetheless, a fantastic time was had by all.

It was then time to say goodbye to my travel companion as she set her sights on a short stop off at home, followed by heading back to work. This farewell never materialised in true chaotic travel fashion unfortunately: even though we planned to catch the same ferry, Kara was rushed onto the first boat in an effort to ensure she made it to Bangkok in good time. I was brushed aside to catch the second, as I only planned to make a return to Ko Tao for some diving. Home sickness took hold for the first time since I’d left home and I became quite apprehensive about the next part of my journey on my own.

My misery was short-lived as my decision to complete my open water scuba qualification turned out to be a great decision. I went with Big Blue and was lucky enough to be assigned a great instructor and group of fellow novice divers. It really is another world down there and the decision to pursue my advanced adventurer qualification was easily made. They say it’s the best value place in the world to dive and I can believe it. After the courses, I was fortunate enough to do some snorkelling with some turtles and reef sharks a short scooter ride to shark bay which was awesome. After the number of bandages I’d seen on tourists, I was reluctant and rather nervous about my introduction to the world of two wheel motor vehicles, but it was a smooth transition and the freedom was bliss after being constrained by public transport and the endurance of my legs for both cycling and walking.

I headed to Ko Phi Phi next which is an incredible, but relatively expensive place - I blame Leonardo DiCaprio and The Beach for this. Nonetheless, the beauty lived up to the hype and I thoroughly enjoyed exploring the island. South East of Phi Phi is Ko Lanta which is a larger more understated island and with my newly acquired scooter skills, I explored every nook and cranny with the greatest pleasure. I was joined by my Belgian dive buddy Thomas, and every day ended with a beer from 7eleven on the beach, watching the most spectacular sunsets. I say “beer” but there was a case of mistaken identity where the most awful wine was disguised as a beer and a quick rectification run to the shop needed to be carried out. In hindsight I should have been suspicious given the budget friendly price. I chose to spend the last of my days in Railay, surrounded by the lime stone crags and it was truly a dramatically beautiful end to an unforgettable experience in Thailand and the parts of Southeast Asia I did manage to experience. I’m sure the pictures speak for themselves as a record of the great times.

Sunset at Ko Tao just below our room

We had an upstairs room. The hiss of the cicadas was deafening

Beach swing. Great entertainment

The splurge on a nice room in a resort on Ko Phangan

One of many bucket stalls. Free hugs here

Sunset at Big Blue after a magic day of diving

Heading out to the dive boat. Rich on the right was my fantastic instructor

Heading out to the dive site. The wreck and night dives were highlights

Viewpoint on Ko Tao

Enjoying lunch before heading out to snorkel with reef sharks and turtles in the bay behind me

View of Ko Phi Phi. I stayed on the beach to the right

Tractors on the beach became a common sight

Fire show on Ko Phi Phi at the hostel at which I stayed

Restaurant seating area on Ko Lanta

At times the remote and rugged beauty reminded me of the Wild Coast back home

Beer sunset on Ko Lanta

Another Beer sunset on Ko Lanta

The lighthouse in the reserve at the southern tip of Ko Lanta

Appreciating the dawn from the dock on Ko Lanta

Scroopy and Click - our scooters admiring the sunset on Ko Lanta

We drove every road on that island. Even the overgrown ones

Princess Lagoon at Railay. Totally worth the climb / hike

Paddling around Railay was spectacular and great to be out on the water

The Railay taxi rank. A stark contrast to the ones I know back home