Australia Part II - enter the ponies

Australia Part II - enter the ponies

Part of the plan for this adventure was to include some experiences off the beaten track. In what shape or form did not matter too much and I was open to pretty much anything. By chance one of the guys in my dorm in Cairns mentioned he’d got a job through an online ‘help exchange’ programme and was leaving later that day to work on a farm nearby. Naturally I signed up and the first advertisement I came across was a “horse and cattle station” a couple of hours’ drive west of Townsville. I didn’t know too much about horses or cattle, but that didn’t seem to be a problem, and in exchange for caring for a couple of calves and some young horses and general pitching in, I would get food and lodging. Seemed like a reasonable deal to me.

Amelia Downs, which would become home for the three short weeks I spent there, is a 50,000 acre cattle station and has been run by John and Prue Weir and their family since 2000. Jane, their daughter, keeps a number of horses which she trains and prepares for competition, although a recent injury has limited her ability to pursue this dream currently. Some horses are kept for work purposes such as mustering cattle which I soon learned is a pretty fun means for directing the flow of bovine migration. I was also lucky enough to ride an off road bike, a quad bike, shoot a 223 rifle, try my hand at welding and get a great insight into what it takes to run a farm and experience the day to day lifestyle. I loved the early mornings and getting to know the warm blooded beasts that are horses and all their different personalities and quirks. The Weir family is particularly warm and they were very kind to me during my stay exuding patience with the visiting city boy and making a great effort to ensure I enjoyed the experience.

It then became apparent that I’d have the opportunity to move down the coast to assist at a race horse stable - Affinity Park - which is Joe and Amy Weir’s plot in Oakey, near Toowoomba. Joe was off to attend a vet conference in New Zealand and he would be joined by John and Prue as well as Amy, so I arrived with the intention to assist Mikayla with the horses while everyone was away. I was warned that race horses can be pushy and stubborn, but I got on well, or they behaved particularly well, and enjoyed my stay in the small, quiet town. The sunrises and sunsets were spectacular and it was impressive to see the transformation of what was once a vacant plot into the current horse yards and stables in a few short years. On returning from New Zealand, Joe was keen to continue with his stables building project and so I was shifted from stable hand to technical assistant. I learned a great deal over the past month and it was a great way to really interact with some genuine locals and get an insight into ways of life of which I am not accustomed.

Foggy dawn at Amelia Downs

Leading two mares out to the paddock after breakfast

Mustering cattle on Rhythm the moody chestnut

Driving the cattle on to the next paddock for fresh grazing

Old truck at Amelia Downs

The dogs love riding on the quad bike

Home for the three weeks I spent at Amelia Downs

Lucky, one of the two calves I cared for, enjoying the morning sun

Jane fixing the fence gate

We did some casual riding as well which was good fun

Lovely morning at Oakey horse racing track

Amy training one of her horses

The house at Affinity Park - home for my week in Oakey

Joe welding the frame for the stables at sunset

Australia Part I

Living in South Africa the majority of my life and having done some travelling, I have been privy to the vast contrast between the first and third worlds and many ‘in-between’. But that still did not prepare me for my arrival in Australia after three months travelling countries that would be classed third world or developing economies. The intensity of the grilling immigration officials and the airport security was enough to encourage the beads of sweat growing in number initially due to the heat and humidity to make me look like there was nothing but narcotics and weapons stuffed away in my backpack. But with the first world restrictions comes manicured lawns, luxury I’d long forgotten such as comfortable pillows, western food, efficient and relatively comfortable public transport and many more pleasures. Especially when you are fortunate to have some family residing in Darwin - my first stop on the island.

Marion is my Dad’s cousin and I was spoilt for the full eleven days I stayed with her and her husband Robert. Simon, their son, is living the dream with his family at their home on the marina and the whole family was extremely welcoming and kind to me, it really was a welcome relief from backpacking. My stay included a trip to Kakadu National Park, Litchfield National Park, a sunset cruise around the Darwin Harbour, trips to various museums, galleries and monuments and some great chill out time. I then headed across to Cairns to meet up with Helen who had a week off from work with the plan to head up to Cape Tribulation via Port Douglas and Mossman Gorge. The weather didn’t really play its part, but the environment was still spectacular and we had a really good time exploring the area and making the most of it. Unfortunately that did mean that diving the Great Barrier Reef was on hold until sunnier days. 

Helen went back to work and I made my way down the coast to Townsville - Piers and Shelley’s old stomping ground. It was great to place some images alongside some of the stories they had shared and I took their advice and saw some great sights. Magnetic Island is indeed magnetic. Despite not managing to take a picture of a Koala, I did see some, and exploring the island by bus and on foot was great. As usual, I also met some interesting people along the way.

Sunset from the jetty at Simon's place overlooking the Darwin marina

'Jumping croc'

The Aboriginal art reminded me of some of the bushmen paintings I've seen back home.

In fact, the similarities/parallels in Australian and South African history and modern day society was really interesting

Kakadu National Park is diverse and beautiful. 

Some of the park was closed due to the wet season, but the parts we saw were awesome

The Darwin coastline

Termite mound in Litchfield National Park

Both Kakadu and Litchfield are packed with great pools for swimming

Beach walk in Cape Tribulation

Walkway through mangrove

One of many joggers stopping to enjoy the sunrise on Castle Hill, Townsville

Bizarre little creatures

View from a bunker on Magnetic Island

One of the many beautiful beaches on Magnetic Island